A Day At The Beach
The day was warm and muggy; it was the perfect weather to go to the beach. The water was clear and a rich deep blue in colour. Not a patch of sea weed in sight. The fine white sand is burning your feet as you hear the sound of the waves crashing and the cool sea breeze brushing by. I take a deep breath of fresh air and look at the surrounding of people soaking in the sun waiting to get in the water. I slapped on the sunscreen and packed up my gear and ran towards the water, little kids were building sandcastles and having sand fights. I dogged through them and at last I was running through the shallows of the water getting nearer to the in coming wave. I dove straight through the dumping wave, the cool water rushing down my body. I popped back up to the surface, relived that I was finally out of the warm weather and cooled off by the beautiful seawater.
I swim out further and further until my feet couldn't touch the sand on the bottom, waiting anxiously for the next few sets of waves. I had picked my next wave and could feel the thrust of the wave pulling me towards it. By the feel of the wave pulling me I could tell it was going to be big. I stick one hand out in front of the other paddling and me as fast as I could go and then I was off. I kept my body straight and my head under and my hands out in front and I was body surfing this wave like nothing else.
The wave pushed my further and faster as it I could feel the wave breaking on my body and there I was back at the shallows again floating in with the white wash and was ready for another wave. As I stood back up and ran back out to the deep water I saw one of my surfing mates catch the most perfect barrel it was rad. It would have been a great snap shot. I caught another wave, this one was even bigger. The thrust of the wave was twisting my body and I was pulled und... Continue Reading