The Big Wave Surfing Phenomeno

The Big Wave Surfing Phenomenon at Mavericks and the Legend of Surfing Culture

When people stereotype surfers, one individual that comes to mind like sand on the beach is the high school stoner Jeff Spicoli (Played by Sean Penn) in the movie Fast Times at Ridge Mont High. Just imagine the scene where Mr. Spicoli is standing with his surfboard and trophy. There are two gorgeous babes in revealing bikinis at his side. He starts ranting and raving about his winning the Nationals and going to party with the Rolling Stones in London. Another public image of surfing came out in the surf bank robber thriller Point Break in which Patrick Swayze plays a role of a drinking nonchalant surf dude looking to steal enough money to catch that one perfect wave that only comes once every fifty years. How misinformed and wrong our society is to infer such nonsense about what surfing is really about. “Surfing is all about living-and occasionally dying-in the moment.” Surfing is the only sport where a competitor will sit and gaze at the waves imagining the ride, ecstasy, and overall confrontation with Mother Nature. One doesn’t see a professional tennis pl

Sheer velocity and overpowering big waves set Mavericks apart from all other known and hidden surf sites in California and the world for that matter. The previous analysis and discussion, in my opinion, has supported the case for surfing as being a culture and very competitive one of a kind sport recreation. California since as early as 1959 has benefited in the areas of tourism and recreation sales due to the large following of surfing. I strongly suggest going for a trip to Half Moon Bay and seeing the dangerous waves that give these men and women the time of their lives. Now the reader should be aware of the fact that surfing is just more than waxing down a board and jumping in the water and having it all for happen just like that. Preparation and meditation are two activities that the serious survivor wants to have in the arsenal. Finally, I encourage all readers to experience in some form or another the difference in lifestyle just over highway seventeen in Santa Cruz and up the coast to Mavericks and be amazed at the courtesy and help surfers offer, because they just want to be respected for surfing.

Mavericks are California’s only true “big wave” break ride except for the infamous and incomprehensible spot about one hundred miles of the San Diego coastline. These waves are like drawn out of a dream. The Mavericks Crew of four, who undoubtedly have the set the bar for all other maniac wave riders, decided to embark on the journey out to the spot founded and named after Gerry Lopez (One of the greatest surfers to tackle Mavericks as well as the Pipeline in North Shore Hawaii). Surfing these waves could only bring smiles and laughter to these crazy men. Stories and legends about Mavericks are necessary to reflect on to present what makes Mavericks different than any other big wave surf site.

Well I just watched another ESPN Sportscenter and yet once again no cover story or even mention of a professional surfer male or female. Kelly Slater, the Michael Jordan of surfing is one of the world’s greatest professionals to dawn a wetsuit and yet I can bet that over ninety percent of the readers of this paper don’t know how many world titles he possesses. The answer is six, but the point of lack of knowledge has resulted in lack of television coverage and public interest. These men, women, and children put their lives on the line enduring nature’s toughest tests for personal enlightenment and to entertain spectators smart enough to take in a surfing contest. Our society deems negative blows to surfing by informing the public about accidents like the little thirteen year old professional that lost limbs in Hawaii from a shark attack. Not taking anything away from her or her family, society needs to understand that surfing is a way of life that includes religious reflections, musical culture, personal gratification, natural highs, and lows, and feelings of happiness and unity with fellow wave runners. That one perfect wave is always such a challenge to conquer. Some of the world’s best surfers venture out to Mavericks in Half Moon Bay to satisfy their dreams of riding the biggest and the best.

As an outcome from waves traveling these long distances, one must understand why the water particles within the wave as the energy move through the water. The important conclusion is constant particle movement causing breaking waves to produce barrel rides for the most enduring surfers. Just thinking about Mavericks having the light and gentle wave break of the Atlantic Ocean waves hitting the east coast is mind boggling. The unique Pacific Ocean in that the severe and extreme last minute bottom rises, very steeply were the wave doesn’t have a moment to cease, creating a force of energy pitched upwards and forwards into the Big Waves we see at places like Mavericks.

Located at the northernmost tip of Half Moon Bay, just southwest of Pillar Point, lies the most dangerous big waving surfing parad

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