The art of riding a board on an ocean swell was first done by the ancient Polynesians more than three thousand years ago. The migration of the Polynesians to the Hawaiian Islands started in about 2000 B.C. and lasted through the fourteenth century. They started in what is now Indonesia and traveled to Hawaii. The pioneers’ voyage was nearly three thousand miles in fierce ocean currents and prevailing winds. The Polynesians made it to Hawaii in double-hulled canoes, which were well equipped for the journey ahead of them. Relying on their knowledge of traditional sea and wind patterns, the seamen successfully completed the passage acr

Surfing as pictured by many was primarily developed in Hawaii. Wave riding became a highly developed recreational activity. The ancient Polynesian probably had simple surfing skills, but the Hawaiians built off of their roots and created a unique pastime. After a hundred years of Hawaiian wave riding, their style of surfing emerged.

Yet surfing was not limited to the Polynesian Triangle. Surfing also got a big start from West Africa and South America. Peru was a leading country for South America in the surfing rise. Surfers were spotted of the coast riding reed boards made of papyrus. These boards were shaped very similar to modern surfboards. These practices are not related to ancient Polynesian surfing, but they are influential to the origination of surfing.

In addition, there were three types of surfboards that the ancient Hawaiians used, ranging from eight feet to twenty-four feet. The longest boards were the most difficult to handle and were reserved for royalty. Similar boards were found in New Zealand and Tahiti. These were the only places where boards longer than five feet were found. The similarities between Hawaii and Tahiti surfing are not a coincidence, but a connection. Many surf legends made trips to both countries and brought along their surf culture to infuse the two.

After the surfer exits the water, he sits with his shortboard lying on the sand and watches the ocean. The man looks down at the board and begins to think. If it were not for the Ancient Polynesians, Duke Kahanamoku, Hobie Alter, and several others, he would never know what surfing is. Surfing brings so much ease and pleasure to his life and without those peopl

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