Origins of Surfing
A surfer approaches the beach on a perfect morning. The orange sun is just rising over the horizon. The gentle breeze stirs around the scent of salt and the water looks like glass. The man goes into the ocean and maneuvers among the large waves successfully, skillfully cutting and slashing on the face of the swell. Stoked, the man would never stop to think, “Who was the first person to ever do that?” Surfing is one of the oldest sports today. It is a combination of sensitivity to the environment and pure athleticism. But how has surfing gotten to where it is today?The art of riding a board on an ocean swell was first done by the ancient Polynesians more than three thousand years ago. The migration of the Polynesians to the Hawaiian Islands started in about 2000 B.C. and lasted through the fourteenth century. They started in what is now Indonesia and traveled to Hawaii. The pioneers’ voyage was nearly three thousand miles in fierce ocean currents and prevailing winds. The Polynesians made it to Hawaii in double-hulled canoes, which were well equipped for the journey ahead of them. Relying on their knowledge of traditional sea and wind patterns, the seamen successfully completed the passage acr
The modern surfboard was introduced in 1957, made of foam, fiberglass, and resin. The boards were not as heavy and made surfing easier for children and women to experience. The boards were still eight to twelve feet long. Many people like Noll, Hobie, and Quigg all started to produce shapes for their boards. Quigg first came up with the idea to place three fins on a surfboard and Hobie started the first surfboard mold. All three of these surfers were pioneers in surfboard development. The modern shortboard came about in 1968 and was about 6 feet in size. This board is the most popular today and requires the most skill. Surfing took a jumpstart from these two countries, yet the biggest catalyst to modern surfing was not a country. A Hawaiian by the name of Duke Kahanamoku and many other young surfers brought surfing to its current state during the late 1800s and early 1900s. They rode boards made of redwood and balsa wood, which were not as heavy as the wood boards of ancient Hawaii. They impacted surfing like no others ever have by spreading surfing to mainland America and Australia. George Freeth brought surfing to Southern California. He introduced the modern day surfing to Rendondo Beach, and the popularity of surfing had hit the mainland. Kahanamoku’s dream was to demonstrate surfing to wherever there was good surf. Kahanamoku started in New England in 1912. He went to Atlantic City and Long Island to put on shows for swimming and surfing. Duke also originated the surfing style of angling or “riding the line.” Many surfers took up this practice because it lengthened the ride and took more skill. Furthermore, Duke took surfing to Australia
Some topics in this essay:
Furthermore Duke,
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Pacific Polynesians,
Hawaii Wave,
Hobie Quigg,
South America,
Duke Kahanamoku,
Hawaii Tahiti,
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ancient polynesians,
swimming surfing,
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south america,
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Approximate Word count = 1121
Approximate Pages = 4 (250 words per page double spaced)
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