Surfing, The Australian History Of
“But a diversion the most common is upon the Water, where there is a very great Sea, and surf breaking on the Shore. The Men sometimes 20 or 30 go without the Swell of the Surf, & lay themselves flat upon an oval piece of plan about their Size and breadth, they keep their legs close on top of it, & their Arms are used to guide the plank, they wait the time of the greatest Swell that sets on Shore, & altogether push forward with their Arms to keep on its top, it sends them in with a most astonishing Velocity, & the great art is to guide the plan so as always to keep it in a proper direction on the top of the Swell, & as it alters its direct. If the Swell drives him close to the rocks before he is overtaken by its break, he is much praised. On first seeing this very dangerous diversion I did not conceive it possible but that some of them must be dashed to mummy against the sharp rocks, but jus before they reach the shore, if they are very near, they quit their plank, & dive under till the Surf is broke, when the piece of plank is sent many yards by the force of the Surf from the beach. The greatest number are generally overtaken by the break of the swell, the force of which they avoid, diving and swimming
Some topics in this essay:
James King, Swell Surf, Jack O'Neill, Pier Pressure, Alf Laws, Costa Rica, Warm Hawaii, David Nuuhiwa, Busting Ariels, CORKY CARROLL, mark martinson, costa rica, corky carroll, surfing longboards, swell sets, fin set, turbo tunnel, composite wood, surfing lifestyle, boards surfing,
Join now to see the rest of the essay!
Approximate Word count = 2637
Approximate Pages = 11 (250 words per page double spaced)
CUSTOMER SERVICES
| |
|
Example Essays Home
