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Juan Briceno Page 2 12/03/2002.
The third step was to install the Jacob's chuck into the live center to be able to drill the hole. After center drilling, I then preceded with a 3/8 inch drill to drill a 2 1/8 inch hole down the center of the barrel and finishing off with the chamfer tool. I then extended the stock so about 5 ½ inches were out of the chuck and changed the position of the tool holder so that the tool bit was perpendicular to the stock. I then locked the live center in place by extending the tailstock quil. I then reduced the diameter as prescribed in the lab manual for all individual sections of the barrel. .
At this point, after reducing the barrel to its different diameters, it was off to cutting ridges on the barrel. I change the tool on the tool post, from a round nose bit to a ridge cutter, measured and marked the specific distances, and then preceded the cutting process. I then reinstalled the round-nose tool bit and prepared to make the angle cuts. I then made the 8 degree angle cut from ridge C to D and the 2 degree angle cut from ridge B to C, using the cross slide dial. .
To polish the barrel, I took a piece of emery paper and wrapped it around the barrel. I turned the lathe on and polished the barrel with different pieces of emery paper. I started with 120 grit paper, moved to 240 grit, and finally 500 grit. I then used the buffer to shine the piece. .
The next step was to cut the end of the barrel off using the band saw and the circular cutting holder. I saved the piece I cut off to make the wheels. I then installed the three jaw chuck, faced off the back end of the barrel and made my own signature cuts to be creative. To make the wheels, I put the remaining aluminum into the collet chuck and faced off the end. I then sanded the Dykem off the stock and drilled a hole through the center using a #6 twist drill. After drilling the hole, I knurled the surface of the aluminum to create treads for the wheels and using the parting tool I cut the wheels to the same width.